The Webmaster's Darkroom Inventory
Version 1.2, last updated 6 July 2003
Overview
This document is actually a list of my darkroom equipment as well as where I got them or how
I built them. This document was meant as a reference for Philippines-based photographers
who are starting or just considering setting up their own darkroom.
Please note that my darkroom was / is being built specifically for b/w development, processing, and printing.
Those who wish to process color photographs will require some specialized equipment.
For complete contact information of shops, please refer to my supplier's list.
1. Film processing tank: I've got a stainless steel Konica single tank with matching steel reel.
Because it was so difficult to use, I eventually gave up and went for an A-P plastic double with
matching adjustable reels. Both were acquired from Avenue Photo in Hidalgo. The steel set cost me
Php950 and the plastic Php1400. In just a few months (and two dozen rolls processed) I've already
broken one of the plastic reels, so there is something to be said about the indestructibility of
steel tanks and reels.
2. Changing bag: I got the Konica large-sized changing bag. This is the double-zippered
black bag that looks like a oversized black t-shirt with no neck and torso holes.
Php1200. Also from Avenue Photo.
3. Lab thermometer: Standard mercury lab thermometer. Php156 at Mercury Drug. These mercury
thermometers are difficult to read and are an environmental and health hazard should they break.
Dondon Medina from Ph-Photo tipped me off that non-merc lab thermometers are available at a small store
at the corner of Xavierville and Katipunan. The store sells blown glass lab equipment. The
red fluid filled thermos go for around Php200. More when I'm able to visit this store myself.
Update: I was also able to find red-liquid thermometers at Avenue in Hidalgo for roughly Php250.
4. 500ml beaker: While you can use any non-reactive container, I opted for a glass beaker for my
developer so that it's easier to pour and manage developer temperature. Php280 at Mercury Drug.
5. Working containers: Recently, I found some HOMEZ(brand) plastic measuring cups with lids for
Php50 per piece at MAKE ROOM in Rockwell. These work great since I can hook their handles over the
lip of my tempering bath and keep them stable despite having much more water in the bath. They also come
with moderately water-tight seals so I can temporarily store chems in them as well.
6. Glass stirring rod: Php27 at National Bookstore (not all branches have lab equipment, only the
larger ones). I have four of these, one each for the developer, stopbath, fixer, and wash. Each are
labelled with a large letter-coded tag.
7. 50ml Glass graduated cylinder: Php167 at National Bookstore.
8. 100ml Glass graduated cylinder: Php260 at Mercury Drug. Try National Bookstore first.
9. 500ml Glass graduated cylinder: Php591 at Mercury Drug. You might want to try National Bookstore,
since their student grade lab equipment tends to be cheaper.
10. 50ml Plastic Syringe: Php40 at Mercury drug. I use this for mixing developer, since it's easier
than trying to pour the gooey concentrate into beakers. (I use HC110, which is a thick syrup).
11. Water bath: Big plastic square tub (read: palanggana). Any department store.
Lately, I've been using a styrofoam cooler that's been cut in half to make it shallower. It keeps the temp
much more stable than a standard tub. I also added a bar along one sood where I can hook my working
containers. Php700 at any supermarket.
12. Temperature control system: Sounds impressive? These are actually just two (2) THERMOS(brand) reusable
plastic icepacks, and a Coleman(brand) cooler. I keep the two large icepacks immersed in water in the cooler,
providing me with enough cold water to keep the system stable for two hours. I mix tap (at 30+ degrees) and
chilled water (at 7-10 degrees) to provide the 18-19 degree tempering bath.
13. Chemistry storage containers: I use an assortment of reused glass containers.
I use empty Sola(brand) iced-tea bottles to store stock solutions of my home-made stuff. To store make
my HC110 developer concentrate last, I break it down into reused small brown medicine bottles that
I fill to the brim seal and store in the refridgerator.
14. Film washer: As advised by Albert Yan, one of the darkroom masters at PH-PHOTO, I improvised
a film washer out of an empty 2 liter PET softdrink bottle. I use the ROYAL TRU-ORANGE bottle since it has
straight sides, unlike the Coke bottle which now comes in the classic "sexy coke" shape. Four holes
are drilled in the bottom to allow water to drain at a moderate rate.
15. Film squeegee: Zim(brand) cellular sponge, kept immaculately clean. I store them in zip-lock bags
to keep out dust and grit (I live in a VERY dusty place). Available at your supermarket.
16. Film drying clips: Document clips. These are the black metal ones with the chrome handles that
flip over. I'll try to post an image soon. I clip the film on one end and hang them on a double hook suspended
from the shower-curtain rod (my darkroom is a converted bathroom). I clip another on the other end to keep
film straight.
FYI, my printing dry-side is still under construction. However, I've listed the stuff that I INTEND to buy
or have built.
1. Enlarger: I bought my Beseler 23CII-XL from eBay. It's got the dichroic head which means, when and if I decide to,
I can do color printing as well. Had it delivered to a very cool and handsome friend (oks ba, H?) and he
was so cool and kind enough to ship it to me via Johnny Air Cargo. Total cost (including shipping): US$550.
2. Enlarger lens: My enlarger came with a Nikon 50mm f/2.8 enlarging lens.
3. Negative carrier: Normally, this should come with your enlarger. Mine didn't, so I bought a used
Beseler 35mm neg carrier on (you guessed it) eBay. US$33.75.
4. Darkroom timer: Bought myself a used Gralab 300 darkroom timer on eBay. US$45.
5. Print tongs: I got the Konica lab tongs from Fotohaus in Hidalgo. Php250.
6. Developing trays: I haven't bought these yet. I'll probably buy plastic trays from a department
store. I haven't found any in the right size yet. I'm thinking of two sizes, one set to fit 5x7 prints, and
another for 8x10's. Tell me if you've seen some good candidates.
7. Drying racks / frames: I'll probably have these built by my carpenter. These are just wooden
frames with nylon / fiberglass screen material streched across it. Hardware stores have this type of
screening readily available (usually colored blue).
8. Grain focusing aid: My eyes are still good, and I'm not making uber-large prints, so I'll
probably forego this for now. I saw one at Avenue Photo, though.
9. Safelight: Don't have this yet, but I saw some at Hidalgo. I might try an ordinary 10 watt red
bulb first. Or I'll try the supot-mani pinoy-style-bulok safelight.
10. Easel: Recently, I was able to *inherit* an ancient Durst two-bladed easel. It was given away
because the original owner had passed away. It looked like it was stored in a damp basement for 20 years.
After 48 hours through electrolysis, it looks as good as new. All the rust sloughed off. I just
had to sand it a bit and repaint it.
1. Film developer: Kodak HC110. Good for 2 gallons. Approx Php500 at Foto Alley.
2. Stopbath: Home-made 1.5% acetic acid diluted from Glacial Acetic Acid (99.8%). Approx 160 per liter
at Mercury Drug. Good for 66.7 liters and comes out to Php2.30 per liter.
3. Fixer: KODAFIX Solution. Good for 1 gallon. Approx Php280 at Foto Alley.
4. Hypo (fixer) eliminator: Home-made from Hydrogen Peroxide (Agua Oxigenada) and Strong
Ammonia Solution (Ammonium Hydroxide 30%). I was a chem major in a former life and I never thought it
would be useful. Bought from Mercury Drug. :) The formula is in the
darkroom FAQ. Comes out to Php8.00 per liter. CHEAP!
5. Film washing aid: Home-made photo-flo. Two drops of Joy Ultra in a liter of water. Cheap,
available at any supermarket. Safe for plastic tanks, too (Photo-flo is not).
6. Paper developer: Kodak Dektol. Packet good for 1 gallon. Php250 at Foto Alley.
Mix by the glass, add a little sugar. Great with strawberries. Just kidding.
I haven't gotten this far yet. But I'll probably start with Kodabrome II Resin Coated paper. Approx Php280
per 25 sheets (8x10) at Filipino Camera Exchange or Foto Alley. Also available as 5x7.
1. Film storage: In my fridge in zip-lock bags.
2. Paper storage: In my fridge in its paper light-proof envelope, inside a zip-lock bag to minimize
condensation problems.
3. Chemistry: An assortment of reused glass bottles. Mostly Sola(brand) for stopbath and
hypo-clearing agent. Developer and fixer in small (100 ml, enough for one go)
reused glass medicine bottles, completely full. With LARGE masking tape labels of contents and batch date
plus the word: POISON. I keep all this stuff in the fridge (in a cardboard box to keep them together)
until I need them. Hence the poison label. I wouldn't do this if I had kids around the house. All
I have is a wife and a cat. You think I could afford this hobby if I had kids?!?
4. Negative archiving: I use PrintFile(brand) negative archivers. Acid-free... comes in big packs.
I ordered these direct from the manufacturer in the US. http://www.printfile.com
1. Exhaust (intake) fan: I plan to install an exhaust fan on the door of my darkroom. It will be installed pointing INWARDS
so that I keep the room at positive pressure. On the other side (inlet side), I'm planning on building
a duct / light trap. I'll attach an air-filter (3M aircon filter) on the inlet duct. This whole
arrangement keeps the dust out of my darkroom. At least that's the plan.
2. Exhaust hood: So that the positive pressure has some place to go and that ventilation actually
does occur, I plan to build an exhaust hood over my sink area. My sink area has a window right over it,
so this hood / ducting construct also serves to keep the light out. The hood is unpowered and
merely exhausts due to the positive pressure from the intake fan. Several birds with one stone. Again,
that's the plan.
During the course of building and designing this darkroom, the following reference books have been
invaluable. While the Ansel Adams books are wonderfully comprehensive, they are NOT for the beginner, and
they focus primarily on black and white processes. If you're just trying to get a feel for how much
pain is involved, the first two books should suffice.
1. The Essential Darkroom Book by Tom Grill and Mark Scanlon (Contributor). | Listing and reviews at Amazon.
2. The New Darkroom Handbook: A Complete Guide to the Best Design, Construction, and Equipment by Joe de Maio, Robin Worth, Dennis Curtin. | Listing and reviews at Amazon.
3. The Ansel Adams Guide: Basic Techniques of Photography, Book 1 by John Schaefer. | Listing and reviews at Amazon.
4. The Ansel Adams Guide: Basic Techniques of Photography, Book 2 by John Schaefer | Listing and reviews at Amazon.
5. The Camera (Ansel Adams Photography, Book 1) by Ansel Adams. Listing and reviews at Amazon.
6. The Negative (Ansel Adams Photography, Book 2) by Ansel Adams. Listing and reviews at Amazon.
7. The Print (Ansel Adams Photography, Book 3) by Ansel Adams. Listing and reviews at Amazon
1. Sink option 1: I'm having my trusty karpintero make one out of wood. Epoxy (marine) paint
and sealer to keep it water tight. Standard drain fixtures and a flexible plastic hose (1.5 inch diameter)
to direct the drain flow to the shower drain. Yes, I'm using the shower as the wet-side.
2. Sink option 2: I could have a fiberglass shop build a sink to my specs. These are the same
guys who make car bumpers and bathtubs. If the price is right, this is what I'll do.
3. Lightbox: I bought a china-made generic (what isn't, nowadays?) lightbox from Avenue Photo. Cost Php1600,
but includes a dinky 10x loupe. Can run on batteries! Wow!!
4. Emergency bottle: I don't have a light trap for the door. I've got an empty 1 liter
wide-mouthed cranberry juice bottle under the sink... for... emergencies. :)
This document last updated on 6 July 2003.
|